GOLD VS. PLATINUM

Our Pave Diamond Bangles showcasing the three 18K Gold Colours - Rose Gold, White Gold and Yellow Gold

Loose diamonds are absolutely stunning on their own. When it comes to diamond jewelry, gold and platinum are the most common metals used to craft gorgeous pieces. These precious metals are an integral part of the jewelry design and play a crucial role in highlighting a diamond’s beauty. Both gold and platinum have their own set of pros and cons.

At 64Facets we predominantly use 18K gold as opposed to 24K gold, as is it stronger and more durable when it comes to setting diamonds. Thus, we will be comparing the properties of 18K gold against that of platinum.

Here is a list of factors you need to consider before selecting the perfect metallic partner for your diamond jewelry.  

COLOR AND HYPOALLERGEN

While platinum comes in only one colour, gold comes in three metal tones i.e. yellow, rose and white gold. Thus, gold is more versatile when it comes to creating different looks and complimenting varied skin undertones.

The most obvious comparison can be drawn between white gold and platinum. Platinum has a natural light silver colour which maintains itself. On the other hand, white gold begins its journey as a yellow gold.  The yellow gold is then treated and mixed with other alloys and plated with rhodium to transform it into a lustrous silvery white colour.

Another thing to be mindful of when making your purchase is that platinum is hypoallergenic. This means that it is less likely to react to highly sensitive skin when compared to certain 18K or 19K golds which may contain a nickel blend. Some people may be allergic to nickel.  However, using a palladium blend instead of nickel for white gold allows the jeweler to eliminate the chances of allergies.

SCRATCH RESISTANCE & MALLEABILITY V/S STRONGER DIAMOND SETTING

Platinum is harder than gold in its purest form. However, 18K gold is only 75% gold, while the remaining 25% is a mix of different metals, which makes it as strong as platinum and more scratch resistant.

Gold is also more malleable when compared to platinum. Platinum makes it difficult for jewelers to carry out intricate and detailed work, mostly due to the extreme force needed to mould the metal as well as  its high melting point. This is why most of our 64Facets collections are made with 18K gold.

On the flipside, platinum’s brittleness, i.e., its resistance to bending, makes it a more secure option to hold the diamond in place. Both metals hold the gemstones in place securely. However, in the unlikely case of your diamond jewelry being subject to immense external pressure, platinum would be stronger.

WEIGHT AND DURABILITY

Platinum is denser and thus the sturdier metal. Contrastingly, even though 18K gold is stronger than pure gold, it is slightly more prone to wear and tear over the years. Platinum, given its density, is also the heavier metal of the two. The weight is something that should be kept in mind especially while ordering different kinds of jewelry. For example, if you’re opting for a pair of diamond earrings, gold is the more obvious choice for it is lighter and doesn’t strain the ears. However, platinum might be a great option for a solitaire diamond ring, where the weight adds a luxurious touch to the jewelry.

PRICE POINT

Platinum in general is the more expensive than 18K gold, simply because it is mined less in the world and also due to its higher melting point which pushes up its manufacturing cost. The difference however is slight.  

THE ULTIMATE QUALITY CHECK: HALLMARKS

Hallmarks are crucial to identifying the quality and make of the metallic parts of your jewelry. Under the 1973 Hallmarking Act, all jewelry items for-sale in the UK, made from precious metals  i.e. gold, silver, platinum and palladium need to be engraved with hallmarks. At 64Facets we follow these hallmarking guidelines for all our jewelry which is shipped worldwide. The most essential part of these hallmarks are the standard marks, which determine the type and purity of the metal. Gold and platinum jewelry weighing less than 1.0 and 0.5 gram respectively, are exempt from hallmarking. They are usually engraved onto the inner lining of rings and near necklace clasps.

Since both gold and platinum are seldom used  in their pure forms, different numbers are allotted to the alloy mixes for each precious metal. These alloy mixes vary based on the percentage of pure metal present in the jewelry.  Anything less than 24K Gold consists of different combinations of silver, copper, nickel, zinc and palladium. Platinum too is mostly mixed with palladium, rhodium and other platinum group metals.  Each metal blend is allocated an unique number, as can be seen from the image below, eliminating any scope for confusion. For example, if your jewelry is labelled with a 750 mark, it is a 18K gold metal which comprises of 75% pure gold mixed with 25% alloys to harden the metal.  Similarly, if your jewelry is labelled 950, it comprises of 95% platinum with a 5% mix of other alloys.

Standard Marks indicating the metal’s quality/purity. Image Courtesy The Assay Office

THE 64FACETS ON PRECIOUS METALS

Gold and platinum are very complimentary to diamond jewelry. Depending on your personal preferences and priorities, either of the two can be great choices. Whilst we recognize the merits of platinum, and do use platinum for some of our jewelry (such as the Ethereal Diamond Necklaces), we generally prefer 18K gold due to the delicateness of our jewelry pieces. In general, 18K gold is easier to work with, allowing us to fulfil our commitment to creating delicate and intricate pieces of fine diamond jewelry.